“French cooking?” he puckers his lips, frowns, and blurts out, “outright boring.” He is staring into my eyes. I let out an
awkward giggle that comes out more like a stifled grunt.
Star of the show! |
He is a burly man with handsome
features, sports a stubble, speaks in a
somewhat gravelly voice , and with an unmistakable French accent . You can’t miss the tattoos peeking from underneath the
sleeves of his immaculate, white chef’s coat and a cool pair of shades sits on
his head . And he has magic in his fingers.
I am talking about Toronto based
chef Marc Thuet, a Frenchman who finds the severe traditions of French cooking boring, insists on having utmost fun with his ingredients, enjoys cookinG,
hates routine and if you don’t find him at home or in his restaurants, he is,
perhaps, off hunting bears in the Canadian wilderness.
This afternoon I had the good
fortune of tasting a few of Chef Thuet’s signature dishes at Le Thuet, a
special gastronomic experience hosted by the Taj Bengal and I can’t quite stop
drooling over the mere reminiscence of the superlative meal that I was served.
Chef Thuet and wife Biana Zorich |
Just the other day a fellow food
writer popped a question at a similar lunch to the group eating together. He
asked which was the last memorable meal we had and where? To our dismay not one
of us came up with the likeness of a concrete answer. I wish I was asked the
question now. I can say without a hint
of doubt that it was the best meal I have had in a long, long time.
When Chef Thuet and his wonderful
wife and business partner Biana Zorich, the duo is a part of Canada’s culinary
elite and runs some very successful restaurants in Toronto, left Canada, the temperature was
a freezing -20. Imagine there predicament landing in Calcutta and having to
surf a few heat waves. One they had to tackle the heat and two, Chef Thuet had to
make a few changes to his menu. Of course, the local produce and ingredients available also urged him to tweak the menu. However, the first thing, he introduced his cold
cucumber soup to the menu, perfect for the summer heat, just what you need to cool if off.
“The cucumbers here are lovely and I had to make this soup,” he says.
For the soup the chef seasons the cucumber and
leaves it for about 48 hours so that the water runs out and then he blends the
cucumber with thick hung curd, a few spices and some beautiful, fragrant
Israeli mint. It does have a faint resemblance with the our raita but then in
it go chunks of goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. Subtle on the palate, refreshing, with the
burst of tang from the goat cheese and the tomatoes, this one made for a
promising beginning. I hear, the chef also makes a non vegetarian version of
the same soup with poached scallops and prawns. Hear seafood lovers!
With the soup came a hunk of
Baguette Traditional, a traditional French sour dough bread had rolled just like
olden times. It’s soft yet chewy, very light and fluffy. “The dough for this classic French baguette is
fermented 4-6 times,” says the
chef. Tear off a chunk, dip it in the
golden green olive oil that comes along, and relish its goodness.
The main course comprised, Cured
Quebec duck magret, sweet water prawns, black cumin caramel and mango followed
by Gremolata crusted lamb rack, basil and goat cheese mashed potato.
Cured Quebec Duck Magret with Roquette, Parmesan and a drizzle of Olive oil |
Interestingly, the Cured Quebec
duck magret accompanied the chef all the way from Canada. Magret basically
breast of ducks specially treated, read force fed, to produce fois gras. Fois
gras, made of fattened liver of duck or goose, is of course France’s most famous delicacy. Now the breast is
question is super meaty, the size of a brick, and Chef Thuet cures the meat in
his signature style – first the meat is seasoned with grey sea salt and left
for 4-5 days, then the chef prepares a rub with 14 special spices, rubs it on the meat and hangs the meat for 7 days. “You can hang it for as long as you like but I want my duck to be
meaty rather than dry like prosciutto,” says the chef.
Cured Quebec duck magret, sweet water prawns, black cumin caramel and mango |
The dish is question had a
generous cut of cured Quebec duck wrapped around prawns in a subtly sweet, slightly
tangy and perfectly creamy sauce with pickled ginger and bits of mango.
Perfectly executed, the dish is light on your palate and a perfect balance of
subtle flavours. The best part: the duck
definitely enjoys the glory pot in the dish. Better still, just so we could
savour the duck with out any trimming,
the chef sent to the table a platter of finely cut duck meat topped with Roquette, Parmesan shavings and a drizzle of olive oil.
The second dish, Gremolata
crusted lamb rack served on a bed of basil and goat cheese mashed potato, baby carrots,
mushroom and asparagus. The meat was perfect, done rare, the perfect dark pink
inside and the fatty juices dripping crazy. And the delicious;y creamy mashed potato with the basil and the
goat cheese brilliantly complemented the gremolata crust of the lamb. I sure
hope no one noticed while I was shamelessly scraping away at the last dregs of
meat.
Wild mushrooms risotto with Parmesan shavings |
Next in line was the Wild
mushroom risotto generously topped with Parmesan shavings. Now I have spent almost
a month in Italy (three weeks to be precise) and I have had some great risotto there but
none quite like this one. This risotto is by far the best I have had. “Great
rice and great wine make for the secret behind a good risotto,” says the chef.
Biana, laughs, “He is French with no love lost for Italians and he makes this
brilliant risotto.” I agree! It was definitely a stunner, thearborio perfectly
cooked, al dente, creamy but no too much, a little smoky from the Shiitake and truffles
that the Chef uses in his recipe. It was very very difficult to be polite with
that dish around, is all I can say.
Chef Thuet is an emotional man. His wife Biana
and he appeared in the award-winning reality television series Conviction Kitchen,
where ex convicts were trained to run a
restaurant. But two seasons later the chef refused to continue with the show. “During
the course of the show these people you train and work with become extremely
attached to you , dependent on you. Once the show is over we cary on with life
and they are left on their own. It is very difficult for them. It was painful
for us. So we decided no more!” he shares. And I have no doubt that a person as
emotionally charged should make such great food.
In front: Saffron Tartlet with golden peach and Alphonso compote, maple syrup and walnut rumble; Behind: Chocolate caramel Mousse Verrine with sea salt crumble |
Anyway, so finally it was time
for desserts, something I look forward to and wait for, even before a meal
commences. For desserts there was a gorgeous Saffron tartlet, light and
buttery, filled with golden peach and alphonso compote, maple syrup (trust the
Canadians with maple syrup, the Canadian province of Quebec alone produces one third of the world’s total produce of maple syrup) and walnut crumble. Now at
any other point in time I would go crazy over this dessert, but this time
something else claimed my attention and affection, completely. A Chocolate
Caramel Mousse Verrine topped with sea salt crumble. I cannot but not use the
word orgasmic when I am talking about this bite of unadulterated Sin. The
gooey dark chocolate laces your mouth with its bitter sweetness and just when
you are least expecting it a burst of salty distraction bowls you over. This
one is a winner, the star of the show.
And I will go back, just for this, one more time.
Crazy thing I did: Popped a anti allergy
and dug into the prawns anyway. This one time I couldn't resist and glad I didn't.
PS. The food festival Le Thuet
exhibiting Chef Marc Thuet’s signature dishes will be open for lunch and dinner
till April 18, 2014 at The Hub, Taj Bengal.
My love, I told you popping that pill was totally worth it. :D
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